Milan Fashion Week Men’s SS 2020: Stories of Sustainability and Difference
Takahiromiyashita the Soloist
In a similar departure from our current reality, Takahiromiyashita the Soloist ties together the eccentric Spring/Summer 2020 menswear collection with hats, scarves and a healthy union of postmodern childhood nostalgia and ambition lost in forgotten dreams.
The collection evokes a faint sense of open aspirations merged with sophisticated taste. Long johns, felt school boy and fireman hats, jockey caps, admiral jackets and loose skirts transform the sense of boyhood into a more modern, refined fashion taste. This is subtly yet craftily accentuated by accessories, a smattering of print pieces amongst the monochrome palette and, notably, Miyashita’s collaboration with Converse. This collaboration presents a plethora of platform sneakers on the Milan runway, infusing the pieces with a layer of ‘elegant streetwear’.
Aptly named ‘Duet’, each piece in the Milan collection is a series of combinations that challenges conventional masculinity, emerging as contemporary iterations of traditional tropes in menswear.
Palomo Spain further liberates fashion from traditional gender norms by channelling the aura of eromenos in the pederastic tradition of ancient Greece, and the ravaged city of the ancients. The collection, titled ‘Pompeii’, seeks to portray the drama of men’s relationship with their present civilisation and the future of fashion. Intricate crochet work, sheer skirts, and lace-fringed tops that flow on the bodies gender-ambiguous models are hallmarks of head designer Alejandro Gómez Palomo’s new collection.
Beauty comes with roughness and violence, and in his pieces, this translates to an infusion of PVC and latex to offset elaborate undertones. Crochet dresses mirror broken mosaics. Bright colours highlight the warmth of the runway, and most notably, models either have shining faces – oiled, perhaps, in Grecian tradition – or are obscured by masks and headpieces. This creates a sense of warped, ravaged beauty of the iconic southern Italian island.
These collections explored the concept of time as malleable, playing with the past and the future to forge new perspectives. The narratives behind the clothes were reflected beautifully in designs, cuts, and aesthetics, and we at Casper & Casper believe that this was a fashion week to remember.