Labels to Look Out For in Paris FW 2019
Fashion has been appealing to an androgynous aesthetic, and this movement has seen a resurgence in the past season. Suits that do not adhere to silhouettes, dresses that defy time periods and an adherence to cool, chic elegance form this season’s overarching theme. We at Casper & Casper predict that it will carry through in the final leg of the Big Four Fashion Weeks of 2019.
Casual basics and high fashion might seem like an odd pair, but designers Isabel Marant, heading her namesake label, and Jonathan Anderson, creative director for Loewe, have made them work in previous collections.
Marant’s alternatives to denim in her past Spring RTW 2019 show came in shades from blue to dark to pink that made them suitable for the dance floor and the runway. Similarly, her “casual and workable” objective shone through in the Fall 2019 Menswear line, as well as the more muted shades of the Isabel Marant pre-Fall collection for women. Marant has been giving us trench coats, cashmere sweaters and boots this season, fading from her spring colours to a cooler, more sophisticated tone by sticking much closer to the silhouette.
We expect to see the same seasonal change from Loewe. Anderson was also more liberal with his use of colour and form in the Loewe Spring RTW collection, where he “had the idea about people walking through a gallery space who are individuals but connected by a common thread”. Abstraction of the details are key in Anderson’s artistic direction for Loewe. This was especially true in his Fall 2019 Menswear line, where the flapping 80s – not the 20s – unzipped to reveal an ambiguous subversion of the traditional Western aesthetic.
Giambattista Valli’s pre-Fall collection centred on confidence in femininity, showcasing clothing that women can look and feel powerful in without having to “camouflage as men.” Valli emphasises the “privilege of being a woman” in his wide variety of dresses and coats. With a colour palette ranging from whites and light pinks to ensembles of almost entirely black, Valli provides looks that express femininity in practically any way a woman can feel it. Subtle floral patterns break up black dresses and suits; frills offset otherwise straight-lined outfits; and the majority dark-palette collection is incredibly sophisticated, delivering a collection that speaks to a young heart without sacrificing luxury. We can expect this trend towards darker colours to extend into his Fall collection his upcoming Paris Fashion Week show.
The Fall 2019 season has also proven to favour a resurgence of formalwear with labels such as Celine and Dolce & Gabbana, emphasising cleanly tailored suits over streetwear.
While Hedi Slimane’s Celine label debut, Paris La Nuit, exhibited a variety of women’s clubwear full of glamorous ‘80s-style dresses, it was the androgynous formalwear that stole the show. The men’s – and much of the women’s – collection focused on slim suits and narrow ties, giving a liberal interpretation of the classic black-and-white palette. Slimane made a point to highlight that the entire men’s collection is, in fact, unisex, and will be available for women to buy, leaning into the androgynous trend and looking to attract the younger crowds. The move away from streetwear may open a comfortable space for Slimane’s sleek and modern tailoring.
Meanwhile, Dolce & Gabbana’s men’s collection, echoes the 1920s and 30s with its clean lines and bowties. Opening with a stream of black and white, the collection revived a “timeless elegance” in its exploration of masculine tropes, moving on to accent these interwar styles with signature Dolce & Gabbana gold and black patterns. The collection recognises a desire of many to wear a classic suit or tuxedo that’s been perhaps neglected in recent times, revisiting and revamping a look all generations are nostalgic for.
Edgier looks coupled with runway-chic are a classic combination, and designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Gareth Pugh are two of the most striking designers so far, infusing music, love and passion in artful collections.
Last spring, both Yamamoto and Pugh released designs that were inspired by both people and high concepts. Yamamoto draws his pieces in jilted, deconstructed style, and last season, he channelled the soul of “the highest soldier” in his work by undermining military precision. The bestial, aggressive nature of battle is embedded in detailed buttons that are lackadaisically and freely attached on gold-splattered black and plush velvet. Pugh, having worked with Madonna and FKA twigs, dedicated his past RTW line to the late stylist Judy Blame. Pugh showed a gender-fluid line-up in death-defying heels and striped full-body suits. The headpieces were provocative and sensual, and the entire Spring collection spoke of eroticism stomping on tradition.
The trend seems to be that the Fall season tends to make cooler, silhouette-focused designers out of most labels. Coupled with the androgynous elegance of this season’s style, Casper & Casper are more than eager for the rest of this week’s shows.
View the Paris Fashion Week schedule with Casper & Casper today.