Scandinavian Academy Graduate Show at CFW ‘19
Ushering in a new era of fashion and design, Copenhagen Fashion Week heralded the arrival of a new generation of designers and artists, prompting them to tap into their ‘design-DNA.’ The Scandinavian Academy Graduate Show presented new and emerging styles inspired by international art and culture, with each designer employing their own individual approach to compositions of colour, form, and material on the runway.
Casper & Casper were inspired by these novel creations and the influences behind them. Here are a few staff highlights from last week’s show.
Nicklas Rørhøj Jørgensen: A Trip to Mods
In 1960s London, young British modernists – or ‘mods’ – were identified by their propensity for jazz and their ability to influence the fashion scene. Their tastes dominated the era, and of these ‘mods’, scooterboys stood out for their flight jackets, big boots, and flashy, Italian-imported scooters – a subculture that continues to influence other British subcultures today. The bright colours of A Trip to Mods draws from the mechanic chic of this era, inspired by both Jørgensen’s childhood fondness for his own scooter and the scooterboy subculture itself. Cleaner forms mimic the quintessential scooterboy aesthetic, while bomber jackets are replaced by parkas and tailored clothing. Jørgensen transports the Copenhagen runway into the past, while at the same time infusing 1960s fashion with more contemporary tastes.
Rebekka Weihe: Huldufólk
Delving into her heritage, Weihe channels the mystical Faroese in her debut collection, drawing from her own upbringing in the Faroe Islands as well as the history and culture of the region. She evokes the nineteenth-century workwear tradition of sweaters, aprons, and woven skirts, which are also markers of the ‘huldufólk’: creatures similar to elves, hidden and thriving in nature. This is relayed as minimalistic looks and sparsely-patterned ‘workwear’ styles, such as knitted sweaters that hang low on the puffed sleeves of high-collared dresses. Weihe upholds this unique take on magic and folklore in her collection in the same way that the Faroese continue to preserve their beliefs and culture. This connection characterises the key pieces of her collection, defying the controversy of a more personalised ‘national suit’ and, at the same time, respecting Faroese tradition.
Tine Gry: Ego Transformation
In a more philosophical turn, Gry attempts to visualise the liberation of the self in his work, reconfiguring everyday expressions of identity. Functional workwear such as fishermen’s waders, white collar suits, and boiler suits are reinterpreted and combined with the more extravagant tastes of the 1970s music scene. Tine Gry frees the ‘everyday’ zeitgeist trends by transforming vests into corsets, raincoats into fur coats, and plain tees into T-shirts with a trailing train. They convey a distinct sense of a Friday night at the end of a long workweek; a glamorous and decadent dance floor; and a vibrant, unforgettable night fuelled by the relief of freedom from the constraints of tradition.
Frida Palmblad Hustig: Architectural Structure
Fashion and architecture are not so far removed from each other. While the runway and setting for a particular line is instrumental in creating the first impression of a collection, like the Prada Resort 2020 collection, Hustig takes this further by finding inspiration in a physical location. Hers is a collection based on the architecture of Band Des Bundes, a group of Berlin buildings that form a bridge to connect what used to be the East and West sides of the city. The strong influence of modern architecture, marked by geometric concrete, steel, and glass, becomes the classic tailoring of oversized 90s silhouettes in Palmblad’s pieces. The transformative collection conveys a reprieve from all forms of constraining architecture. Her pieces centre on the confidence of sharp shoulders, knee-length skirts and dresses, and overly long sleeves, bridging the gap between the traditional and her experimental, contemporary taste.
In an industry that is in a perpetual state of change, new talent emerges to both honour the past and look to the future. The Copenhagen Fashion Week Graduate Show prompts this talent to connect originality and technicality, proving that the historical, visual narrative of fashion remains progressively cohesive as it develops. Casper & Casper looks forward to more from these designers who displayed their creative freedom and artistic flair in such sophisticated style.