To Work, In Style: Le Meunier by Jacquemus (F/W 19)
Feature by Jyqa Patano
From France to the world, JACQUEMUS sends its bold hello in the language of fashion.
Simon Porte Jacquemus has become one of the firm favourites in fashion in recent years. The self-taught French designer founded JACQUEMUS in 2009 when he was just 19, straight out of working for Commes des Garçons. Jacquemus proves that the relationship between fashion and art doesn’t have to be high-end to be wearable. His clothes are daring in a way that is, according to writer and documentarian Loïc Pringent, “never trashy, never too much”. Instead, he brings a genuine spirit to the deconstructed, surrealist aesthetic of this clothing, making real clothing for real people. It comes as no surprise that it has been picked up in the past year by retail heavyweights Selfridges, Moda Operandi and Net-a-Porter.
Ten years later, his roots are definitely not lost in translation on the runway, even as he enters into the realm of menswear at the Palais de Tokyo.
The theme of his first F/W men’s collection, aptly titled ‘Le Meunier’, calls back to days of hard, manual labour, evoking the spirit of his roots in Marseille. The outerwear is designed to withstand the weather and still maintain its functionality, with numerous pockets and triple-stitching for durability. The collection also includes wide-leg pants in cotton canvas and denim, known for their sturdiness. The palettes are infused with industrial browns, reds, oranges and yellows that paint a portrait of the southern end of France on a summer sunset, keeping in mind simplicity and wearability – perfect for ‘the miller’ of Jacquemus’ vision. He remains true to his earlier dictate in a 2018 Vogue interview that “every collection would have a title like a French film”, and we are just at the edge of our seats waiting for the next one.
Jacquemus is a modern Frenchman whose work is an ode to his home town and childhood. His collections have carried his success and this, ultimately, may be the backbone of his success.